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July 23.2025
3 Minutes Read

Navigating the High Costs of Beauty: What Ami Colé Teaches Us

Ami Colé skincare products elegantly displayed with orange packaging.

The Challenging Landscape for Indie Beauty Brands

The beauty industry is not just a realm of vibrant colors and glamorous products; it is a battleground where many small brands struggle to survive amidst corporate giants. Ami Colé's shutdown sheds light on the heartbreaking realities faced by independent makeup brands, especially those led by underrepresented founders. While it may seem simple to launch a beauty line, the complexities of scaling and marketing often reveal a far more daunting reality.

The High Costs of Visibility

Ami Colé, launched by seasoned entrepreneur Diarrha N’Diaye-Mbaye, garnered notable attention with its innovative offerings, backed by significant funding from L’Oréal-backed investors and placement in the coveted Sephora stores. Yet, even with the right connections and an initial buzz, the brand succumbed to severe budgetary constraints and the high stakes of maintaining visibility in competitive retail environments.

The premise that a beauty brand can thrive simply by being unique often collapses under the weight of marketing costs, shelf-space fees, and inventory management. N’Diaye-Mbaye wisely noted that while it is crucial to reach consumers amidst rising retail costs, effective strategy is typically out of reach for smaller players. As marketing budgets escalate like the perception of quality in the beauty market, smaller brands often find themselves grappling for attention, sometimes left with excess inventory from uncertain demand.

The Importance of Diversity in Beauty

The story of Ami Colé is not merely one of failure; it's also a narrative highlighting systemic challenges that Black entrepreneurs specifically face. Many consumers might not recognize that the financial hurdles are often exacerbated for brands owned by individuals from diverse backgrounds, creating disparities in access to resources and market understanding. With the marketplace seemingly more welcoming following the DEI movements in 2020 and 2021, the fickle nature of investor enthusiasm can be disheartening for founders committed to authenticity over commercialism.

Industry stakeholders emphasize the need for more than just innovative products; there is a vital need for supportive ecosystems that allow diverse brands to flourish beyond mere visibility. This includes providing mentorship, ensuring fair funding practices, and creating community-oriented networks that prioritize collaboration over competition.

Learning From Failure to Fuel Future Success

Though Ami Colé's journey ended in closure, the lessons learned can guide future entrepreneurs venturing into the beauty world. For new brands to be competitive, they must strategically navigate retail partnerships, devise prudent inventory management tactics, and foster strong relationships with their customers. This is not merely transactional; brands need to cultivate deeper emotional connections with their audience to gain loyalty.

Ultimately, the closing of Ami Colé reveals both the importance of resilience in entrepreneurship and the pressing need for ongoing discussions about equity in the makeup industry. Potential founders should be prepared to learn from the experiences of others, applying insights and adapting as they navigate their paths.

Be Inspired to Take Action

The beauty industry is teeming with opportunities for innovation and inclusivity. As a conscious consumer, your choices matter. Support brands that share your values and advocate for diversity and sustainability. Your purchasing decisions can help create a marketplace where every voice is heard and respected.

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KKT Labs: The Future of Biotechnology in Beauty Innovation

Update KKT Labs: Leading the Charge in Beauty Innovation While the beauty industry releases a staggering number of new products annually, true innovation appears to be dwindling, leaving many consumers craving something fresh and exciting. In 2024, market research firm Mintel reported that only 46% of beauty and personal care launches were truly novel, signaling a decade low (source). Enter KKT Labs, a creative force determined to bridge the innovation gap in beauty. Entering the Biotechnology Era KKT Labs, led by Krupa Koestline, has emerged as a key player, creating over 1,500 formulations for brands like Rhode, Kopari, and Tower 28. With the company’s upcoming 16,000-square-foot innovation hub in Orlando, the vision is clear: embrace biotechnology to revolutionize beauty products. "My vision for the company has always been very clear... I want to be the one place to go to if you want to do something new and innovative," Koestline stated. Catalyzing Change with New Facilities Scheduled to open in 2026, KKT's innovation hub will host laboratories equipped for advanced techniques such as fermentation and tissue cultures. This facility not only supports the creation of groundbreaking ingredients but aims to make cutting-edge biotech accessible to smaller brands that often find themselves at a disadvantage when competing against larger entities. Koestline emphasizes the need for independent innovation centers, especially as "existing brands want to establish themselves as more science-leaning" (source). This shift can empower smaller players in the beauty market. The Promise of Biotech in Beauty The rise of biotechnology in beauty is opening unprecedented avenues for sustainable and effective products. As Koestline noted, many traditional ingredients pose not only ethical dilemmas but sustainability issues. For example, hyaluronic acid—a famed hydrating ingredient—used to be extracted from animal tissues. Now, biotech has enabled its production through microbial fermentation, resulting in a cruelty-free alternative that performs consistently well (source). This kind of innovation does more than just appeal to conscious consumers; it redefines the standards by which beauty products are created. Empowering Indie Brands with Innovation By lowering barriers to entry and enabling indie brands to utilize affordable, biotechnological formulations, KKT Labs is fostering a community where sustainable practices can thrive. This approach not only democratizes access to premium ingredients but also encourages a collaborative environment for innovation across the beauty industry. Conclusions and the Future of Beauty As KKT Labs positions itself to become a beacon of innovation in beauty, the wave of biotech could change the industry for the better, offering solutions that prioritize efficacy, sustainability, and ethical practices. With Koestline at the helm, the future of beauty looks promising, blending science with compassion. Consumers can look forward to a landscape significantly enriched by technology that aims to benefit us all.

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